How to make clothes that actually fit.
Dressmaking classes that help you to understand how to make clothes that look great and are comfortable to wear.
Understanding commercial sewing patterns and making pattern adjustments.
Have you ever followed a commercial sewing pattern exactly, only to be disappointed and frustrated that your finished garment doesn’t fit properly? Welcome to the club!
That’s exactly what kept happening to me for years. I would spend hours sewing a garment only to have to make extensive alterations – the shoulders were often too wide, the neck gaped, the crotch hung too low, and the bust was too tight. What was I doing wrong? Was my body that odd?
The short answer – NO!
That’s why I took a deep dive into how commercial sewing patterns are made and how to adjust them correctly so the clothes I make actually fit me and, importantly, are comfortable to wear.
What I discovered completely changed the way I sew.
Commercial patterns are simply a starting point
I learnt that commercial sewing patterns are simply a starting point. They provide a framework for creating a garment, but they aren’t designed around your individual body shape.
Once I understood how to take accurate measurements, assess fit and make pattern adjustments, my sewing results improved dramatically.
Best of all, I now have my own set of personalised sewing patterns that fit my body. When I want to make a new garment, I can often sew it up in an afternoon without spending hours making fitting adjustments. There’s less waste, faster results and clothes that are comfortable to wear.
And now, you can too!
To help others avoid the same frustration I experienced, I’ve developed a series of hands-on dressmaking courses where I share the techniques, fitting methods and pattern adjustment skills I’ve learnt over the years.
Commercial sewing patterns aren’t designed to fit everyone
One of the biggest misconceptions in sewing is that commercial sewing patterns are designed to fit everyone. They’re not.
Commercial patterns are developed using standardised body measurements and fit models. Pattern companies create a base size and then grade the pattern up and down to create the remaining sizes.
While this system works reasonably well as a starting point, it assumes that everyone’s body proportions increase and decrease in exactly the same way.
The fact is, real bodies don’t work like that.
For example, two people may have the same bust measurement but completely different shoulder widths, waist measurements, torso lengths, bust positions or body proportions.
This is why relying solely on the size chart on the back of a pattern envelope often leads to disappointing results.
Commercial sewing patterns should be viewed as a guide rather than a perfect representation of your body.
Once you understand a few basic fitting principles, you can make adjustments that dramatically improve both the fit and comfort of your garments.
The importance of accurate body measurements
At the start of all my dressmaking courses, we first take accurate body measurements. Rest assured, my sewing workshop is a safe space with absolutely no judgement. We all have lumps and bumps we’re not proud of.
Before you can adjust any pattern you must understand your own body measurements.
The key measurements required will depend on the type of garment you’re making. For example, garments with a bodice, such as tops and dresses, require different measurements to skirts and pants.
Once your measurements have been taken, they are compared against the pattern’s measurement chart and finished garment measurements. Then we can safely identify any areas where adjustments may be needed before cutting into your fabric.
Finished garment measurements
Many sewers are surprised to discover that the pattern size that best matches their body measurements is often very different from the clothing size they buy in stores.
Ready-to-wear clothing sizes vary enormously between brands, whereas commercial sewing patterns are generally based on a standard measurement chart.
During my research, I discovered that clothing sizes in shops are far from consistent. Some brands use different fitting standards, while others use what’s known as vanity sizing. That’s why you can walk into two different stores, try on two garments labelled size 12, and find they fit completely differently.
When it comes to dressmaking, your tape measure is far more reliable than the size tag on your clothes!
Learning how to compare your body measurements to a pattern – and then how to make any necessary adjustments – is one of the most valuable dressmaking skills you can develop.
Why bust adjustments are important
One of the most common fitting issues when making tops, dresses and bodices occurs around the bust.
Most commercial sewing patterns are drafted for a standard B-cup bust. This doesn’t refer to your bra size alone.
If your bust is larger or smaller than the pattern’s drafting standard, the garment may not fit correctly, even if you’ve selected the correct pattern size.
This is where bust adjustments become incredibly useful.
- Full Bust Adjustments (FBA): Used when additional room is needed through the bust without increasing the size of the shoulders, neckline, armholes or upper chest. An FBA adds fullness exactly where it’s needed, helping the garment fit comfortably while maintaining the original proportions of the rest of the pattern.
- Small Bust Adjustments (SBA): Many people assume they should simply choose a smaller pattern size if they have a smaller bust. Unfortunately, this often creates new fitting issues because it also reduces the size of the shoulders, neckline and armholes. A SBA removes excess fullness from the bust area while preserving the proportions of the rest of the garment, resulting in a more balanced and comfortable fit.
A correctly performed bust adjustment can dramatically improve the fit of a garment. The result is a garment that hangs more naturally, feels more comfortable to wear and better reflects your body shape.
Understanding and adjusting darts
Darts are one of the most important fitting tools in dressmaking.
They may look simple, but darts play a major role in shaping a flat piece of fabric around the curves of the body. Darts turn a 2-dimensional piece of fabric into a 3-dimensional garment.
When a dart is positioned incorrectly – too large, too small, too high or too low – the entire garment can be affected.
In my dressmaking classes, I teach you how to:
- Move darts higher or lower
- Lengthen or shorten darts
- Increase or decrease dart size
- Reposition darts
- Convert darts into gathers or design features
Even relatively small dart adjustments can make a significant difference to the way a garment fits and hangs on the body.
Learning to understand and interpret fit clues
One of the most valuable dressmaking skills you can develop is learning how to read the clues your garment is giving you.
Wrinkles, drag lines, pulling and gaping are all trying to tell you something.
Rather than guessing, experienced dressmakers learn to interpret these clues and know how to make targeted pattern adjustments.
Once you understand what you’re looking at, fitting becomes much less frustrating.
Successful dressmaking is about fit, not just sewing
Many people think dressmaking is simply about learning how to sew. In reality, sewing is only part of the process.
The real magic happens when you understand your body, how garments fit you, and how to make adjustments that suit your unique shape and proportions. And let’s not forget comfort!
Once you develop these skills, you’ll spend less time feeling frustrated by commercial patterns and more time creating clothes that fit beautifully, are nice to wear and are a reflection of your personal style.
Ready to learn how to make clothes that fit?
I know how frustrating it can be to spend hours sewing a garment, only to discover it doesn’t fit the way you hoped. That’s exactly why I developed my intensive one-day Dressmaking Courses.
In these hands-on workshops, you’ll learn how to understand commercial sewing patterns, take accurate body measurements, identify fitting issues and make the pattern adjustments needed to create clothes that fit your body and feel comfortable to wear.
By the end of the day, you’ll take home a finished made-to-measure garment and your own personalised sewing pattern, adjusted to your unique shape and measurements. This pattern can become the foundation for future garments, helping you achieve more consistent results with less fitting, less frustration and less wasted fabric.
Whether you’d like to make tops, skirts, dresses or pants, I’ll give you the skills and confidence to create clothes that fit beautifully, reflect your personal style and are a pleasure to wear.
I’d love to help you on your dressmaking journey.
Bex Mitchell
0418 118 401
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